Hello from Ohio!
This bike is a 26 inch English frame with 24-inch rims that have BOTH hubs off set by 2.5 inches. These are only part of the Trophies and awards I have won with this bike in the last 16 years.  The new rims were made up last year by a local bike shop , as the old ones were getting pretty dull .  I call my bike the UP and DOWN Bike , as that is exactly what it does when I ride it . The rims can not be kept in  time with each other very often. Mr Clyde Potts
Hope you can follow all this, without step-by-step pictures. It's a little hard to explain...... the tape `round the middle crossover of the spokes was the thing that saved me from going crazy trying to follow the pattern..... if you try this, use that tip! Also, keep a standard wheel close by for reference.

Cheers for now Amigo!!!!!
Rob Taylor:
On Building Wobbly Wheels
As told to Larry Lujan, BR&K Contributing Editor
Larry,
Heres the plot....... first, Mike ( the clown) took it to a bikeshop, they tightened all the nipples on one side and loosened them on the other, producing an axle offset of about 1/4 inch, un-noticable in riding, so Mike phoned me. I went to see a buddy called Martin...the guy with the Dynos, and we hunted through his 3 garages full of junk until we found a spoke threading  machine. Luckily the one we located was correct for the b.m.x`s spokes.
(I can't remember their size, fairly standard though.) Next I dug out a 24 in wheel with same thickness spokes, and stripped the spokes and nipples out for spares. The spoke threader looks like a
heavy-duty school pencil sharpener, it mounts in a bench vise, you clamp the spoke in, then turn a handle, which rolls 3 screws down the thread, effectively squashing the thread into the spoke..... no material is removed, unlike a normal die nut which would "cut" a thread in. This maintains strength in the spoke, and doesn't damage the plating too much, to fend off rust. After a bit of practice, and plenty of oil on the cutters, I was ready.

I put electrical tape round where each spoke crosses another, to hold the pattern, then I removed all the nipples. Then I pushed the axle down hard, about 4 inches for the front wheel. This pushed half the spokes down thru their holes in the rim, and pulled the top half away from the rim. Then I got a marker pen, and one spoke at a time, cut them to length and threaded them. This took forever, I used the 24 in. wheel's spokes ( cut to length) for the top half. At no time did I remove a spoke except to change it, one at a time, that way I kept the pattern, sometimes I had to bend the spokes to
" weave" them on and out of other spokes, to get them into place.I fitted a niple loosely to each spoke as I fitted it. At the end, the axle was pulled pretty straight by the twist in all the spokes. I fitted the wheel into the forks and trued it up, first by tightening each nipple to about the same tension, then tightening individuals to true the wheel. The wheel is so offset, it doesn't have to be dead true.... it's never going to do any speed is it?

The rear wheel was offset about 2 1/2 inches, any more and it wouldn't fit the rear downtubes, the chainstays narrow towards the cranks, so there wasn't much space, the rear wheel had to be trued-up fairly well to clear the inside edges of the chainstays.

The front wheel was about 4" offset This wheel ,of course wouldn't fit the b.m.x.`s 20-inch front forks, so a pair of 24" chrome forks were bought for the front, my local bike shop just happened to have some which they`d had in stock for ages, and sold cheap!

Finally, any spokes that stuck thru the nipple into the inner tube area, were ground off. Then I fitted new tube protectors and inner tubes. Mike had already bought new tyres. The carrier was re-drilled to fit the front wheel, to accentuate the offset when the bike moves, also to take a basket to keep clown tools in.

Coaster hubs are real rare over here, so, as a result of the offset wheels, the bike has no brakes. I fitted a solid rear cog, no freewheel, off a circuit racer, so Mike could stop the pedals to stop the bike, but lets face it, it's never going to go very fast. Finally, the hard plastic seat was binned (trashed), and a softer item fitted.

The fact that someone gave Mike the bike, and all the labour was as a favour, meant the whole cost was that of tyres, innertubes and seat, oh, and the forks, and the fact that the b.m.x. was plated, means it looks very professional in use.
Would I do it again?? well it was hard and long-winded doing the spoking, but the end result was worth it. If asked I probably would do it again, but they`d have to pay the going hourly rate!!!! No more favours!!!!!!!!
Hope you can follow all this, without step-by-step pictures. It's a little hard to explain...... the tape `round the middle crossover of the spokes was the thing that saved me from going crazy trying to follow the pattern..... if you try this, use that tip! Also, keep a standard wheel close by for reference.

Cheers for now Amigo!!!!!
Update: More "Clown Wheel" Action!
In our never-ending quest to promote kustom cruises, bike parades, and other forms of bike culture propaganda opportunity, we're all for novelty bikes in general, especially when accompanied by the undulating ride delivered by non-concentric wheel hubs. So, having a new example arrive in our in-box,
seemed an excellent opportunity to update this page.  Nice that there are trophies given, eh? Jim Wilson
Hello from Ohio!
This bike is a 26 inch English frame with 24-inch rims that have BOTH hubs off set by 2.5 inches. These are only part of the Trophies and awards I have won with this bike in the last 16 years.  The new rims were made up last year by a local bike shop , as the old ones were getting pretty dull .  I call my bike the UP and DOWN Bike , as that is exactly what it does when I ride it . The rims can not be kept in  time with each other very often. Mr Clyde Potts