Existing bike tail-lighting which actually works is pretty much the same as lighting up front. If it works well, it costs a fortune, and it invariably is alien-looking on a kustombike. Why current styling chose insectile as a design scheme is beyond me. Therefore, for appropriately-styled powerful rear lighting, with the possible exception of the Specilized Afterburner 02, we've again got to step out of the bicycle box to find what we want.
First, we should look at the electrical considerations. Up front, we have a 55-watt bulb. This is considerable drain on a battery pack. Any way of getting the most light for the least power demand is best where we're concerned. Fortunately, our need coincides with the ready availability of LED auto lighting, which draws a lot less electrical current than a corresponding bulb. This has also happened in bike lighting, of course, but it's generally packaged as insect anatomy, so we don't want to pay for unsuitable-looking housings to throw away.
In the truck accessory lighting line, are lots of LED arrays, in bare-bones form. Two examples are shown, both by Grote. The larger one contains 10 LEDs, and is 4" in diameter. The smaller is 2.5" in diameter and contains 4 LEDs. These LEDs are of the high-brightness type. Obviously, the bigger one is bound to put out a lot more light than the smaller one, which makes it more suited to tail-light usage. But, the smaller one is designed for use as a clearance light on a truck, so it's definitely going to be visible. These lights can be used as free-standing units, or they can be worked into a kustom-sculpted housing grafted onto the fender. A typical middle-weight fender is 2.5" wide. A fat fender is about 3". By wrapping the LED puck in cling film or mylar packing tape, you can build up a Bondo sculptured housing around it, then remove the puck for grinding and sanding operations on the housing.
Before we leave the LED light source topic, we should note that you can build your own LED arrays in whatever form you want them. Radio Shack sells individual high-brightness LEDs, but they can be purchased in bulk from places like Digi-Key, for a much better price. Radio Shack and places like Digi-Key also carry perforated phenolic board. You cut the board to whatever shape and size light you want, then stuff as many LEDs into the board as you want, or can fit. The finished unit can then be cast into a solid chunk of red-colored resin. Epoxy is best for the purpose. You could conceivably cast a tail-light into a section of chrome-plated brass sink drain tubing. The end would be sanded and polished flat, and would look really good, as a pseudo tail-pipe deal.
The LED modules can be used inside lighting units which originally were fitted with bulbs, in many cases. They don't need reflectors, and don't actually even require red lenses, as the light they produce starts out red. It would be possible to cast an array of these LEDs into a clear block of resin, and they would be virtually transparent until illuminated, at which point the block would glow red.
For off-the-shelf tail-lights, motorcycle sources are probably the simplest. Quite a lot of motorcycle units can be fitted to bicycles. There are some nice ones out there, but they tend to be expensive. They also tend to contain provision for illuminating the license plate, which is sort of wasted on a bike. Many other examples may be seen at Vehicle Wiring Products .
Automotive tail-lights are another good possibility for bike usage. Current automotive lighting is pretty much out of the question, what with those giant composite lighting schemes they have now. However, old auto tail lighting is a lot more expensive than it used to be, due to age and condition drawing big bucks from collectors and restorers. Fortunately, there are fairly cheap repros available of some of the classics. Our old standby, JC Whitney has repros of the '39 Ford and '59 Caddy units. The Ford repro is very popular with people kustomizing VW Beetles, giving us a reasonably-priced ($12.99 ), attractive unit which can be Bondo-molded to a fender. This would be a super-looking tail-light on a bike. The Caddy Bullet can be had with or without Blue Dot, at $19.99 or $24.99 for the lens assembly alone. The light bulb fixture for it goes for an additional $4.99. The Bullet lens is 3" in diameter, so a 2 or 2.5" LED puck will fit inside it. This light would be a little more complicated to fair into a fender, but it can be done. In automotive kustom applications, this lens is quite often set into a channel molded into the car's fender. This could also be done on a bike, providing the bottom of the added channel is above the actual fender. Below is shown a sketch of a built-up and sculpted fender fairing for the |